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About this tool
Prepare a bike for long storage with fuel, battery and tyre steps generated from your duration, climate and battery type.
This checklist is generated from how long the bike will stand, how cold the space gets, whether it is carburetted or injected, and which battery chemistry it has, rather than being a fixed list. It projects battery self-discharge using the rule that the rate roughly doubles for every 10 °C rise — about 4% a month at 20 °C for flooded lead-acid and 2% for AGM and LiFePO4 — and flags a maintainer once the projected state of charge would fall below the 80% point where sulfation accelerates. It also sets a storage tyre pressure 25% above normal, capped at the sidewall maximum, and adds the carburettor and stabiliser steps only past the durations where they actually matter.
Open Motorcycle Storage Checklist on AltFTool — it loads instantly in your browser.
Add your input to the workspace.
Adjust the options until the result looks right.
Copy or download the output and put it to work.
The projected state of charge is calculated from chemistry, temperature and duration, so the maintainer step appears only when it is warranted.
Stabiliser past four weeks, float bowls past eight, oil past eight — the list changes rather than telling everyone to do everything.
The plugs, pressures and brake checks that matter on the first ride out are listed separately so nothing is missed.
It depends on chemistry and temperature. A flooded lead-acid battery at 20 °C loses roughly 4% a month, so it drops below the 80% sulfation threshold in about five months, while an AGM at 10 °C loses closer to 1% a month and can sit through a winter on a full charge and a disconnected lead. A LiFePO4 battery should be disconnected at partial charge rather than floated, and never charged below 0 °C.
Fill a steel tank to about 95% and add a stabiliser rated for ethanol, because empty air space in the tank condenses water onto the bare steel. Carburettor float bowls are the exception and should be drained past about two months, since the small amount of fuel in them evaporates and leaves varnish that blocks the pilot jets.
About 25% above the normal cold pressure, and never above the maximum moulded on the sidewall — so a tyre normally run at 33 psi goes to around 41 psi. Better still, put the bike on front and rear paddock stands so the tyres carry no load at all, which is the only complete answer to flat-spotting.
Before, for any stand longer than about two months. Used oil holds acidic combustion by-products and water that attack bearing surfaces while the engine sits, so fresh oil should go in first and the engine should be run for a few minutes to circulate it. Follow the manufacturer's service schedule and consult a mechanic for anything the manual does not cover.