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About this tool
Log two-wheeler fill-ups and get true tank-to-tank mileage, cost per kilometre and the trend across every full tank.
A bike mileage tracker measures real two-wheeler fuel economy by the tank-to-tank method: the distance between two brim-full fills, divided by every litre added in between. Partial top-ups are carried forward rather than discarded, so a mixed log stays accurate, and the overall figure is total distance over total litres — the distance-weighted average, not the arithmetic mean of the per-tank numbers that most spreadsheets report. It also turns the log into cost per kilometre and a projected monthly fuel bill.
Open Bike Mileage Tracker on AltFTool — it loads instantly in your browser.
Add your input to the workspace.
Adjust the options until the result looks right.
Copy or download the output and put it to work.
Weights by distance, so small top-up tanks cannot skew the headline figure.
Carries unclosed litres into the next full tank instead of throwing the reading away.
Reports rupees per kilometre and a monthly fuel bill from the prices you actually paid.
Fill the tank to the brim, note the odometer, ride normally, then fill to the brim again and divide the kilometres covered by the litres it took. One tank is a noisy sample — three or four consecutive full tanks give a figure you can trust, and the nozzle must be allowed to cut off on its own each time rather than being topped up by hand.
Almost always the filling, not the engine. How full the tank ends up depends on the nozzle cut-off, the slope the bike is parked on and whether it is on the side stand or upright, and a half-litre difference on a 6-litre tank is an 8% swing. Traffic, pillion weight, tyre pressure and cold starts explain the rest.
Commuter 100–125cc motorcycles typically return 50–70 km/l in real riding, while 150cc bikes sit around 40–50 km/l and 125cc scooters around 40–50 km/l. Manufacturer figures come from a standardised test cycle, so a real-world number 10–20% lower is normal rather than a fault.
Start with tyre pressure — the single cheapest fix, and worth several percent when tyres are 5 psi low. Then chain slack and lubrication, a clean air filter, a serviced spark plug, and riding habits: steady throttle, early upshifts and no idling for more than about a minute. Track it in a log so you can tell a real improvement from tank-to-tank noise.