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About this tool
Compare a dealer exchange offer plus bonus against the true net proceeds of a private sale after costs, waiting time and money's time value.
A dealer exchange quote and a private-sale asking price are not comparable numbers until both are reduced to what actually lands in your hand, on the same date. This comparison nets the exchange offer and loyalty bonus against a private sale after reconditioning, listing fees, RTO paperwork, the depreciation a car keeps accruing while it waits for a buyer, and the present value of money that arrives weeks later. It also solves for the break-even asking price — the figure a private sale must genuinely close at to beat the dealer, which is usually well above the offer on the table.
Open Car Exchange vs Private Sale on AltFTool — it loads instantly in your browser.
Enter the values you already know.
Fine-tune the options to match your scenario.
Read the result and use it in your planning or reporting.
Private proceeds are discounted back to the day the exchange would have paid out.
Solves for the exact private price that matches the dealer, so you know your walk-away number.
Detailing, listing fees, RTO transfer, holding cost and your own hours all appear as line items.
Privately, usually — but by less than the sticker gap suggests. A private buyer typically pays 10% to 20% more than a dealer's exchange quote, and this calculator shows how much of that premium is eaten by reconditioning, listing costs, RTO paperwork, weeks of depreciation and the delay in getting paid. Run your own numbers: if the break-even price is close to what you realistically expect, the exchange is the better trade because it is certain and immediate.
The dealer's offer is what they will pay for your vehicle; the exchange or loyalty bonus is a separate discount the manufacturer funds on the new car, and it exists only if you buy that new car through that dealer. Because it is conditional, it disappears if you change variant, change dealer or walk away, so treat it as money only once the terms are in writing on the booking form.
Ownership transfer needs Forms 29 and 30 signed by both parties and filed with the RTO, plus the original RC, a valid PUC certificate and insurance transfer. If the car was financed you also need Form 35 and a bank NOC to remove the hypothecation, and an inter-state sale needs an NOC from the selling RTO. Until the transfer is recorded, challans and liability stay with the seller.
More than most sellers expect. On a ₹5,20,000 car depreciating 15% a year, roughly ₹200 a day evaporates from the value alone, and insurance, parking and the interest the money is not earning add to it. The tool prints a per-day cost of staying unsold so you can see when holding out for a higher price stops paying for itself.
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