Holi

What actually happens

Holika Dahan — the bonfire lit at dusk on the eve of the full moon. Rangapanchami — the second morning, when dry powder replaces water entirely.

• 01Holika Dahan — the bonfire lit at dusk on the eve of the full moon.
• 02Rangapanchami — the second morning, when dry powder replaces water entirely.
• 03Lathmar Holi — women of Barsana chase men with sticks, who answer with shields.
• 04Thandai — a cold milk drink spiked with almond, rose and, in places, cannabis.

Sound of the crowd

Dholak, manjira and the eternal Holi repertoire of Bollywood playback — 'Rang Barse' on every speaker from Amritsar to Ahmedabad. In the Braj region, temple drums replace electronics entirely and the singing is in Brajbhasha.

How it survived

References to a spring colour rite appear in the Puranas and in the seventh-century Ratnavali. The Mughal courts adopted Holi wholesale — Emperor Akbar banned it only after breaking a hip, and Aurangzeb re-banned it in 1665. Delhi's artists revived it publicly in the twentieth century and it has not stopped spreading since.